A Post About Nothing

I've finally finalized a design I really like for the library...the first was lame and the second, as it turned out, wouldn't work in my space.  I'm hoping to post pictures soon, but since in the process of discovery I've used up a couple of key supplies...there's a delay.  On that front, actually, I've been having some very pleasant correspondence with Green Gables Dollhouse, which has been supplying the most recent part of this adventure.

I'm also trying to decide how, if at all I want to use my awesome grasscloth wallpaper.

Hopefully soon, too, I'll be ready for the big reveal as far as the living room ceiling.

Jackson was Yoda for Halloween.

On a final note, a question: does anyone have any good suggestions for "how to" books on flower and plant making?  Apparently Pepperwood Miniatures offers "how to" books of their own, which is really exciting considering the quality of their work, but they don't seem to respond to email.  I've tried several times, unsuccessfully, to contact them.  I'd really like to try my hand at plants (hello, greenhouse!) but I'm pretty inexperienced in this area.  And while there are some promising-looking kits out there, none of them are really for the plants I need.

How's everyone else?

REVIEW: Rigid 10" 15 amp Heavy Duty Portable Table Saw

After finally getting to use it a little bit, I was so impressed that I decided to write a review and share my thoughts.  I bought mine at Home Depot; you can look at the saw itself here.  The first and biggest issue is the price.  This is a very expensive saw.  Not Rockler Hardware-expensive, but quite a bit of money nonetheless.  And, well, if your household is anything like mine, money is at a premium.  So I felt a little crazy, and a little stupid spending so much money on a product that, at the time, I knew nothing about.

Unless you have friends with cool tools, who'll let you practice on them, buying any new tool is sort of a stab in the dark.  Lots of highly rated things suck, and lots of inexpensive, unexciting things (like the craft brushes at Michael's) actually rule.  Well, after finally getting the saw home--if you're picking it up yourself, bring a buddy; this thing's heavy--and getting it into our backyard utility area, we were faced with the challenge of actually putting it together.  Jim ended up doing it for me, which was very nice of him.

It's not actually that difficult to assemble, but the instructions are confusing.  It took Jim about an hour.  Not what you'd call "plug and play," but still not horrifying.

Almost all table saws come with a blade, but it's usually an all-purpose blade more suited to ripping plywood than doing anything interesting.  So in addition to the saw, I bought a couple of Diablo blades.  I personally like Diablo; I think their products are well-made.  And, honestly, getting the right blade is important.  I was going to be cutting a lot of MDF, so I looked for a blade specifically designed to cut MDF.  If you're trying to cut something and the motor is whining, or the piece itself is dragging, you're using the wrong blade.  The right blade should cut evenly and effortlessly.

Having said all that, here's why I like this saw:

1. A lot of portable saws are very rickety.  This one isn't.  The base (Rigid calls it a "table saw utility vehicle") is extremely sturdy, even on uneven ground.  I was using mine over peastone, and it was solid as a rock.
2. It has good functionality, and all the functions are easy to access.  I raised and lowered the blade, changed the angle of the blade, and changed the angle of the table itself quickly and painlessly.  Sometimes, changing things around can distract you and take up a lot of time, so this is important.
3. The table extenders are also sturdy, and I had no problem cutting 24" pieces.  The left rip capacity is 12", and the right rip capacity is 25".  But I cut a 48" piece down to 38" with no problem.
4. The mitre gauge slots are extremely smoothly machined.  Surprisingly, this is an issue I've had on lots of tools: my jig fits into one slot but not the other, or the slots are so burred up that my jig doesn't slide smoothly at all.  Which, well, makes for some funny-shaped pieces of wood.  Another nice feature is that there are mitre gauge slots on either side of the blade.  The only jig the saw comes with is, well, a mitre gauge but that's an important one and it's also very accurate.
5. While I don't have specifics on tolerances, I found that even cutting a long (4') piece of MDF into thin (2.5") strips, the saw handled the vibration well.  Sometimes, you can end up with one end being narrower than the other, etc, but I measured all of my pieces and they were completely uniform.
6. It comes with a nice hooked pusher that really works well.
7. There's a 2" dust port, which you NEED.  I cannot even tell you how much sawdust I accidentally blew through the living room window.  I also accidentally coated my husband in sawdust.

The one thing I really wish it had was variable speed, but so far I've actually been completely happy with the saw as-is.   All in all, it cuts like a dream.  The blade guard and anti-kickback pauls work, but don't get in the way.  Finally, too, the saw comes with an important safety feature that (surprisingly, to me at least) not all saws have: an ignition key.  You can't start the saw without it, and since the key is small and portable, it's easy to keep out of small hands.  Considering that a blade going at 4400 rpm could easily take a finger off, this is important.

All in all, I think it's worth the money.  And between this and my MicroLux, I now have the ability to make pretty much every cut in the book.  Which, well, that's a lot of versatility in not a lot of space.

The Hobby Lobby Petition

One of the great things about miniatures, as a hobby, is that it's an escape from the real world--and a chance to create your own, better world.  Nobody wants a political rant.  And, while I'm certainly not trying to keep my own views a secret, I also don't think it's appropriate to preach at people.  We're all different, we all have different beliefs, and diversity is a wonderful thing.  The last thing I would ever want is for someone to feel like they can't be my friend, because we disagree.

But, for informational purposes only, sometimes it's good to share.  And some of you might not know about this petition.  I, personally, like to know what stores, distributors, and manufacturers support so that I can make my purchases accordingly.

Thoughts?

The Tools I Use

I thought about going around and taking pictures of all of them, but then wondered, does anyone even want to see them?  Plus, too, my newest toy isn't yet out of its box.  Jim and Jackson went to Home Depot with me yesterday before work, and we got some MDF panels, too.  They're pretty good sports.

Jackson in his jumperoo; he turned 5 months two

London feels left out.

Yesterday, I purchased a Rigid 10" 15 amp table saw with a portable stand.  Due to my oft-discussed space issues, I'll be using it outside.  

I also have a MicroLux Tilt Arbor Table Saw, which is what I do most of my fine cuts on.  I bought this to replace the PREAC.  I had two PREAC saws for years, and was not happy with them.  My biggest issues were vibration and lack of variability.  I found it very difficult to achieve precise cuts, because the PREAC just wasn't calibrated right.  My MicroLux, however, is accurate to within 0.03 mm, which makes a huge difference to the final product.  Also, because it tilts, fits larger blades, has a variable speed motor, etc, it's much more versatile.

The only thing I miss about the PREAC is Pete Boorum's jigs, but jig making isn't that hard and you can always make your own.  Micro-Mark sells some pretty good accessories, including a nice feather board.  I also have their anti-vibration pad, which works great and is worth the comparatively small investment.  My workbenches are kind of old and warped--they came with the house, which was built in '38--and the anti-vibration pad even works in that less than ideal situation.

After experimenting with several different Dremel products over the years--I've owned an embarrassing number of tools that didn't quite work out--I settled on the Dremel 4000.  Not all Dremels are created equal, and the less expensive, less powerful ones aren't always up to the tasks I have in mind for them.  I love dremelling, and most of my projects, large and small, feature some.  I used my Dremel to create the arches in the greenhouse; I cut two arch pieces, placed them back to back, and used my Dremel to create the actual arch shape.  It's a lot easier to create a composite Gothic arch out of two pieces of wood, than try to get that perfect little point.

I have both a MicroLux electric mitre saw and a regular old box-style mitre saw.  I use the cheap one more.  Spending a lot of money on a mitre saw is, I've discovered, like spending a lot of money on a bottle of champagne or a serrated blade knife: past a point, not worth it.  Korbel tastes better than Veuve Cliquot, and our OXO serrated knives work great.  Our Shun knives, however, are worth every penny.

I love 3M sanding sponges.  The best sanding supplies are made for the automotive industry.

I don't have an airbrush, but I'm seriously considering getting one.

I like X-ACTO #11 blades, #2 pencils, and metal rulers.

I stopped using T-squares awhile ago.  Even the really expensive ones are often slightly off-angle.  But speed squares still rule--and, for some reason, are generally cheaper and better made.  Huh?

I only use Olfa self-healing cutting mats.

To be honest, my favorite brushes are the synthetic bristle ones available at Michael's.  It's all about the quality of the bristles and the actual construction of the brush, not the brand name.  A set of several costs about five bucks and, on the whole, they're better brushes than some brushes I've paid twenty times that for.  

Q-tips rule, and that is all.

Everything I make, I make with these tools. 

Model Cars That Should Exist

Spending quite a bit of money I don't really have to spend, I (with my husband's encouragement) made up for a truly horrible day by purchasing a few model kits.  I already have a 1:16 Phantom II in my closet (along with my Franklin Mint dolls--tell no one), just waiting to be put together.  And, well, the 1:12 Datsun was calling my name.  I think it'd be an awesome addition to my Horrible Rural Shack.

Which brings me to my first question: why are 1:12 scale models quite so expensive?  I mean, sure, they're larger so they'll cost more...but hundreds of dollars for a box of extruded plastic?  Really?

Second, has anyone else used 1:14 or 1:16 scale cars (or bikes, or trucks, or whatever) in their scenes?  Has it worked?

And, finally, on a really mostly unrelated note, there should be better (or existing at all) kits of the following cars:

1. Tucker Torpedo
2. Stanley K Raceabout
3. Delahaye Cabriolet (the 135 would be OK, too)
4. Bugatti Type 57SC Atlantic (or the 735 B)
5. Daimler-Maybach 1889 "Steel Wheel"
6. Phantom Corsair
7. Edsel Corsair (an ad running in "Life" proclaimed that "the Edsel is here to stay!")
8. Jaguar XK120
9. Stutz Bearcat (Mr. Burns owns one, as do Dirk Pitt and several of Anne Rice's characters)
10. 1958 Plymouth Fury
11. 1936 Ford Siebert combination ambulance/hearse (um...great)

Where's the Flocked Wallpaper?

I guess I just love fuzzy things.

But how come no one makes it anymore?  I had quite a nice selection in my (old) studio, which, like the space itself, has gone the way of the dodo.  I was so sad to find out it was gone, and have been searching for more ever since.  As I've absolutely no idea how one might go about making flocked wallpaper--at least, not without serious supplies--this is really pretty frustrating.

Know of any (reliable) sources?

And what else do you wish you could find?  Also on my own personal wishlist are...

1. Furniture pieces (such as Houseworks manufactures in basswood) in hardwood.  I'd so like the opportunity to order mahogany cabriole legs, splats, etc.  For us inferior woodworkers, who lack the skills to create cabriole legs ourselves, this would truly be delightful.
2. Better tiles.  I loathe plastic tile sheets; they never come out quite right for me.  But my dollhouses would, I'm certain, love a delft tile surround on at least one fireplace.
3. Better kits for kitchen furniture--like ice boxes.  As I lack the funds to purchase one of Ken Byers' lovely ice boxes (complete with period authentic hardware...drool), I find I'm stuck.  Chrysnbon makes a nice ice box kit but, of course, it's plastic.  Although I'm planning on experimenting with said plastic to see if I can make it look like anything, well, to be honest, I'm not optimistic.
4. Better dollhouse bathrooms--in kit form or otherwise.
5. Historically accurate wall-to-wall carpet.  You know, with an actual design on it.  If you don't believe me, check out pictures of Lincoln's (real) Springfield Home, etc.  This stuff was in common usage for quite some time, as the quality of the wood used on the floors themselves was so bad.  But it was, of course, patterned--usually with something of an oriental look.  Like hotel carpet today.
6. Better carpets generally.
7. Windows with actual window panes.

Thanks, Michelle, For Bringing Up Some Good Points

Michelle, one of my readers, has asked several excellent questions, as well as provided some expertise of her own.  As I'm sure her thoughts will be of interest to other readers, as well, I'm addressing them in a separate post as well as in the "comments" sections of the relevant posts.  If anyone else has any questions or suggestions, please let me know!

1. What kind of stucco are you using between your beams?  Inside, I'm using wallpaper.  I purchase mine from Miniatures.com, although you can also purchase it on Amazon.  The correct name is "simulated off white plaster ceiling paper".  It's actually vinyl, so it's quite easy to work with.  I use Grandmother Stover's Glue to apply it, but any high quality paste should work just as well.  I apply the paper over the entire room, then glue the beams down on top.  I've had great success with this method, principally because it provides very clean lines.  It's exasperating, cutting paper exactly to shape after you've installed your woodwork.  Outside, I'm using Greenleaf stucco powder mixed with craft paint.  I like DecoArt in "antique white", but any decent craft paint will do.  I mix to roughly a 50/50 ratio.
2. Are your houses 1:12 scale, or are your cats just huge?  Henry and London are just huge.  Henry is actually larger than London, the gent relaxing in the pictures!  Both cats weigh several stone each.  
3. Do you have any advice for making golfer's tape curve?  Honestly, it is a bit tricky--but the good news is, the learning curve is steep.  What I found worked the best was a) cutting the tape very thinly, and b) using a much longer strip than I needed.  If I had one side firmly anchored, I found it was easier to move the strip itself about a bit.  For the more acute curves, I nudged the tape into shape bit by bit.  A set of polymer clay styli are absolutely critical for this step.  They're inexpensive, easily found in most craft stores (and certainly online--Amazon carries them), and really help with the tricky bits.  When I purchase golfer's tape, I purchase the thinnest tape I can find, because I only use the edges.  Each length of tape, thus, provides me with two edges.  If you examine a roll carefully, you'll see that the edges are slightly crimped; by cutting off those edges, I create a nice curve.  Also, it's much easier to gauge distance by eyeballing, which not only saves time cut also increases accuracy.

Michelle has also suggested a fabulous hardware vendor, Tony Hooper Miniatures.  Thank you for this suggestion, and I look forward to perusing the site at length!  Indeed, as I have the rest of the afternoon off...

Happy mini-making, everyone!

PS: I've updated the "tutorials" page, reorganizing it so tutorials on different subjects are easier to find and identify.  As always, the list is still growing!  Please let me know if there's anything you wish I'd discuss, or discuss more...

But Where Can I Find This Stuff?

I've written a number of tutorials, many of which mention pretty strange materials--like lead tape.  Where the heck does one find this stuff?  These aren't exactly every day things.  Most of the alternative techniques I've developed, and materials I've found have been the result of desperation.  Hobby-specific supplies often aren't that great--or, conversely, they're fantastic but ridiculously expensive.  I don't know about you, but I have a limited amount of money to spend on miniatures and a family to support.  Nobody would fancy it much if I spent the week's grocery budget on minis.

Making matters more complicated, I'm in the US and most of you, my readers, aren't.  It's just not that easy to find suppliers who ship internationally.  Specifically, many of the materials used in my lead paned window tutorial are pretty obscure.  The good news is, you can get everything you need from one of my favorite sources: Amazon.  Amazon UK sells lead golf tape for £5.99.  You can also get DecoArt Triple Thick Brush-On Glaze for £4.99.  All of the windows I use are available from Hobby Builders Supply, which ships internationally.

Many things, like Americana craft paint, aren't readily available outside the US and Canada.  The good news is, other brands of acrylic craft paint are.  I happen to like Americana, but I by no means use it exclusively.  With the exception of a few very bargain basement brands, which are usually pretty easily identifiable by their misspelled labels (and other obvious flaws), all acrylic craft paint is pretty much interchangeable.  You might not be able to find the exact same paint in the exact same color, but you can pretty much eyeball it.

If I'm searching for a new color, I tend to splurge on five or six containers at once.  As they cost about 99 cents (USD), that's not too bad.  Also, too, I find that, for one thing or another, I use every color for something eventually.  I try them all out on a piece of scrap wood, wait for them to dry, and decide what I like the most.  It's important to let the paint dry completely before making any decisions; some burnt umber-type colors tend to be very ashy and purple when they dry.  I personally prefer a richer, warmer hue.

I hope these pointers were helpful.  If anyone has a particular product they're looking for, let me know!  I'd be happy to help.

Michael Mortimer, And A Quick Editorial Note

I love all things medieval and tudor, and I have a small but growing collection of work by one of the titans in that field, Michael Mortimer.  Honestly, Mr. Mortimer's stuff has to be seen, up close and personal, to be believed.  A lot of dollhouse furniture has character, and a lot of dollhouse furniture showcases skill.  It's very rare to find a piece that exemplifies both qualities.  Mr. Mortimer's work is some of my favorite; I purchased these pieces from Miniature Scene, York, one of the nicest dollhouse shops around.

I'm actually in the process of collecting furniture for a larger tudor house that I haven't built yet.  I'm also in the process of designing fireplace surrounds, etc.  Once I have a good collection of items, I'll design and build a suitable house around them.  Although my heart lies with smaller scenes, and roomboxes, I do lust after the occasional grander scale home.  I'll keep you updated on my progress!

This cupboard bed is based on a real piece of furniture.

I'm currently hunting for suitable fabric to make a curtain.

The level of detail in Mr. Mortimer's pieces has to be seen to be believed.

A privy!

The concept of privacy (as we know it) was brand new in tudor times.  The first "modern" privy was, essentially, invented by a Frenchman who insisted that his servants carry a green silk tent around with them; he would have it erected over his portable privy, to give himself some respite.  He was considered quite missish.  Many medieval privies were simply niches set into walls, with the necessary equipment--and thus he who used it--out there for all to see.

These are just wonderful hinges.

A bathtub.

Time for the weekly bath, eh?

Finally, a note on historical accuracy: one of my readers emailed me, concerned that I was misrepresenting my work as historically accurate.  Specifically, I used the term "historically accurate" in the title of my last tutorial.  Am I, in fact, misleading you, my readership, as to what is, and is not, correct?

Well, I certainly hope not.  As I've said before, while I'm certainly inspired by medieval and tudor--as well as American colonial, and other--influences, my work belongs to, primarily, the realm of fantasy.  Minis are, for me as, I imagine, for others, an escape from reality--a chance to create my own little world.  I've been making and collecting minis since I was seven, but my first serious foray into the world of "adult" miniatures was during my teenage years.  I absolutely fell in love with an historic home in my home town.  I couldn't live there, so, as they say, I brought the mountain to Mohammed.  I endeavored to recreate my favorite place in miniature.  And, well, I've been at it ever since.

These days, the "favorite place" I create is one of simplicity, tranquility, and wonder.  I'm most inspired by the elusive realm of fantasy, for what the very concept of fantasy represents in my own life--in all our lives.  It's nice to remember, once in awhile, that dreams are possible--and our efforts are sufficient to realize them.

No, I'm not building museum models; my work isn't mean to be a history lesson.  No, the thatched roof tutorial doesn't represent how a thatched roof was actually made.  Nobody really used fur, or Quick Grip, or varnish.  My goal wasn't to give you a history lesson, but to help you create something that, when done, would look good.

Real medieval and tudor houses weren't made out of plywood, or MDF, either; nobody used craft glue.  Landscape elements weren't made out of styrofoam and Woodland Scenics products.  Moreover, medieval England wasn't coursing with wizards.  Sadly, these things exist only in our heads--and insomuch as our hands can give them life.  I'm inclined, honestly, to believe there's enough "reality" in the world already.

I write this blog, and sell my miniatures, and contribute the occasional magazine tutorial, because I love all things mini, and want to share my joy with you.  And, truly, I feel very privileged for the opportunity to do so.  I hope you enjoy minis--in all their many multitudes of forms--as much as I do.

The Most Amazing Thing I've Seen

Every once in awhile, you come across a piece that, as they say, sets the gold standard.  I've seen a handful in my time, but, unfortunately, mostly before I started writing this blog.  I wish that, now, looking back on it, I'd chronicled those experiences better.  As a miniaturist, of course, I have a professional interest in my fellow miniaturists' work...but, really, who am I kidding?  When I see something really incredible, something that utterly engages my imagination, I really just want to play with it.  Every time I see a truly beautiful miniature, I feel the same sense of wonder I did when I got my first dollhouse at age six.

Case in point: DeCave Designs' Windsor Antiques and Rare Book Shop.  This is, quite simply, the best roombox I've ever seen.  I could move right in!

Some Highlights From My Artisan Miniature Collection

I designed the interior of the Wizard's Eyrie around a few of my favorite pieces, so, in celebration of finally finishing it, I thought I'd share a few of them with you.  Introducing them to their new home is only the start of what, I think, will be a long furnishing project.  I still have to find, or make myself, the wizard's bed, desk, work table, etc.

The chairs are hanging on the wall, upside down, so they're out of the way until they're needed.  Anyone who needs to furnish a small space--of whatever scale--should take a few cues from the American pioneers.  The wizard's bed will go along the right-hand wall, his desk under the window, and his work table in the middle of the room.

These chairs were made by Pete and Pat Boorum of Smaller Than Life.

A chair flanked by two gathering baskets.

I collect Al Chandronnait's baskets, as well as fill them for sale, and wanted to give some of the pieces in my own collection a good home.  Like most wizards, ours is very hardworking, and must grow or gather most of his own supplies. He, thus, has a range of baskets for various jobs: small baskets for gathering herbs, big baskets for gathering his neighbor's pies.

Mr. Chandronnait's work is truly extraordinary, requiring a fine and steady hand.

On good days, these baskets might be filled with apples.

I purchased this piece at Molly Cromwell's Sturbridge Miniatures Festival several years ago.

This bellows was made by Al Chandronnait.

This is another piece I purchased at a show.  Sadly, I don't know the name of the artisan.  If I did, I'd buy more of her work!

It opens!

This is my small but growing collection of wizard's implements.

This is a piece I actually purchased for a different project; it's an historically accurate medieval rat trap from SP Miniatures.

I pity the poor rat!

I made this shelf to hold the wizard's prized potions, and other supplies.

So there you have it: a few highlights from my small but growing collection.  Now that I'm finally building (and finishing!) a few homes for my own collection, instead of to sell, I'm hoping it'll really have a chance to grow.

Hooray For Miniature Needlepoint!

Just a quick note to say, we've added a new section under "Shopping List".  We now list artisans offering miniature needlepoint kits.  If we've forgotten anyone, let us know!  Glorious Twelfth is, as always, a work in progress.

Cheers!

My Ultimate Shopping List

I created this blog primarily so I could share my work with family, friends, and anyone else who's interested, but, as it turns out, there are side benefits as well.  Probably the principle side benefit, from an organizational standpoint, is the ability it gives me to keep all my favorite webpages, pictures, etc. in one place.  I've been collecting bits and pieces for inspiration almost since I've been making minis--so there's a lot of them.  My ultimate goal is to make everything I've collected available through this blog.

My first project has been creating my ultimate shopping list: a compendium of the best "DIY" products, furniture, and accessories on the web.  When I started building the tudor house I'm working on now (pictures are coming soon!), I realized, there weren't many directories out there.  What I found was either too large, too out of date, or just plain boring.  I know where to find Houseworks and Aztec Imports products--what I don't know (or didn't know then) is how to find really unique products, the kind of things you see at larger shows.

If you read over our shopping list page, and think something is missing, leave us some advice in the comments!

I'm particularly interested in "smaller scale" 1:12 scale medieval and tudor furniture, furniture kits, and high quality food, kitchen implements, farming implements, and other accessories.